![]() Our explainer on buying the perfect PC case can help, though you should be good if you follow these general guidelines: First, case choice can aid tremendously in optimal fan airflow. There are two final important items to consider. Again: You always want at least one intake and one exhaust fan in your system, and that goes double if it’s a gaming rig. If your case doesn’t allow that configuration, have a front intake fan coupled with proper top or rear exhaust fans, as described previously. This will give cool air directly to the intake fans on the GPU itself. This side is easy to identify as you’ll immediately notice the fan cables coming out of it.If your case allows it, install fans pushing air upwards towards your GPU on the bottom. The exhaust side has an X-shaped spoke that holds the fans in place. If your case fans don’t have these arrows, you can use the structure of the fan to determine its orientation. The first arrow points in the direction of the airflow and the second one shows the direction of rotation of the fan blades. How to determine the fan orientationĬabinet fans have one or two arrows on the side that you can use to find out their intake and exhaust sides. You'll need a combination of both intake and exhaust fans to maintain the proper air pressure (more on that later) inside your PC. All fans have intake and exhaust sides, and their orientation determines how they direct the airflow inside your case. Simply put, an intake fan blows cool air into the cabinet while an exhaust fan pushes warm air out of it. The reason being two 140mm fans can push the same amount of air as three 120mm fans, albeit at much lower RPM and noise levels. Assuming they have the same RPM, you should always use 140mm (and larger) fans as intakes instead of smaller 120mm. If you have a mesh front panel and decent cable management that doesn't disrupt the airflow, you should go with airflow fans.įinally, case fans come in many sizes, with 120mm and 140mm being the most common. In contrast, airflow fans are better at pushing air when there aren’t any obstructions in their path. Static pressure fans are built to push a large volume of air through obstructions and narrow gaps, making them the perfect choice for radiators and cases with a lack of air inlets in their front panels. Depending on their CFM, case fans are divided into static pressure and airflow fans. The CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) of your fan refers to the volume of air it can push through your cabinet. In most fans, increasing the RPM has a considerable impact on its noise level: the faster it spins, the more noise it creates, though there are some premium fans out there that are relatively quiet even under heavy RPM. Silent case fans produce barely audible noise in the 15 dB range, while performance fans can hit as high as 30-40 dB. ![]() Noise level, as the name suggests, is the amount of noise generated by the fans in decibels (dB). Most case fans run at 500-2000 RPM, and increasing the RPM can enhance their cooling capacity at the expense of increasing noise levels and reducing their longevity. The RPM, or rotations per minute, is a measure of the speed at which the fan blades spin. When picking fans for your cabinet, you should always consider their RPM, CFM, noise levels, and size.
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